Bike, Liver, and Barrels…

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gosh, i miss this life of just jumping on a bike, heading to the airport, and trying to get to some destination. i always fly standby so nobody knows where i’ll end up. sometimes perfect, sometimes not so perfect. but the way i look at it is “if it happens, it happens. if it doesn’t, it doesn’t.” so no matter what i’ll never be disappointed.

this time it happened. and i was very happy to put my headphones on and fall into a deep sleep.

not even 5 minutes, i was out cold.

but i did wake up to watch a movie and eat ice cream.

arrived to Kansai pretty fast. got out in 5 minutes and jumped on a train.

clean and efficient. Japan has the best transportation system in the world.

arrived in Wakayama at 9pm, then sat down with Kimura-san at our favorite place.

i started off with the freshest oyster!

you wouldn’t believe how creamy it was. after my first bite, i was so satisfied that i could have jumped back on a flight to Hawaii and been totally happy.

Kimura-san knows i like to eat weird things. the kind of things we don’t have back in Hawaii. so i ate some liver.

then ate some eggs. a couple beers and a Jack on the rocks later, i was in heaven.

went to pick up the van, grab my 7 surfboards, say good bye, jumped on the 2:45am ferry, another 2 hour drive, and arrived at a very glassy and clean river mount barrel. got a few barrels, took a nap, and now going back for round 2. cheers!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide