Meshiya and NoPro

210

opps. forgot to post this a few days ago. must have fell spaced out because i was so sad this day. haha.

just thought i’d share more photos from the amazing matsuri. it happened in a little town but the total fireworks show was bigger than any i’ve ever seen in Hawaii.

i wish the Hilton could do one like this every Friday’s. then for sure i would go every week.

this one totally blew my mind. they were blowing up the fireworks right above the crowd and the fire stars were falling down on everyone. it was like watching thousands of falling stars. i thought i was in Molokai again.

on the way back home we stopped for a late night dinner at Meshiya. i came here to look for Dr. Sato-san because he told me he always comes here on Saturday night.

Dr. Sato-san wasn’t where but his friends were. super stoked to see Yoshi-san. coolest Shikoku local.

pulled up to the river mouth at 5am for more barrels. omg, the waves were going off this morning!!!

and because it’s a Sunday, all the weekend surfers are here. full parking lot at 5:35am?

i surfed for 3 hours. took amazing photos with my gopro. good ones of friends, and good ones of me riding deep in the barrel. caught my last wave to come in and i pulled in the barrel with my gopro, and came out without it. omg! ended up looking for it for a long time with no luck. i’m very bummed. not because i have to buy another one for $400, but because all the photos i took were priceless to me. i’m still super bummed….

came back to the TSSC castle. looked out the window wondering where my gopro will end up. i’m really wouldn’t be surprised if it ends up back in Hawaii. the current was super strong so it’s probably half way there.

looked out the window and watched everybody enjoying the beautiful surf. i fell asleep and when i woke up, i was hoping that losing my gopro was a dream. unfortunately it wasn’t. so here i am again feeling down….. ahhhh….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide