i spent 3 wonderful days in Japan. surfed total of about 12 hours, ate the best food, met good friends, and most of all, got all the barrels i needed. now that i’m back home, i feel totally satisfied surfing and food wise.
it’s hard to explain how perfect river mouth waves can get. something we don’t have in Hawaii so when people ask me what it’s like, i just say “it’s the best waves you will ever surf in your life.” and that’s why i’ve been doing this for the past 25 years. and every year i just want more and more. just look at this beautiful wave as Shikoku’s Kaori-chan sets up for the barrel!
i spent this afternoon playing tourist with family and friends. got an umbrella, beach chairs, surfboards, and enjoyed Waikiki just like how all the other tourists do.
this crazy Category 4 Typhoon is still acting crazy. now it’s heading to land and that’s freaking scary. i hope everything will be ok…
