Surf into the Rainbow

212

had a wonderful time surfing with the Omata-san’s today. it’s been 4 years since we surfed together so i was anxious to surf with them again.

Koichi-san told me he hasn’t surfed since the last time we surfed. what? 4 years? a busy man raising kids but now is his comeback. and by the looks of his face, he was pretty excited to be back on the board.

from his first wave, he surfed it perfectly. in fact, he was surfing even better than last time.

Miyuki-san’s a full on surfer. very energetic and very good. she’s been surfing a few times and it showed.

much better surfing than last time.

i don’t know how Koichi-san had so much energy. even my arms would be sore after all those years out of the water. but not his.

Miyuki-san with the perfect balance and style.

then we had the best loco moco on the island. DH Grill!

thank you guys for the snacks! keep on surfing and enjoy your family vacation in Hawaii!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide