had a great time with the Kogure-san couple this morning. their first time surfing so i could see all the excitement in their eyes.
Noriko-san is very energetic. from the first wave to the last, she kept on going strong. here is the smile before the first wave of her life. no nerves here.
her first wave ever! omg, such an amazing ride and amazing smile.
then after that, it was almost too easy for Noriko-san. riding, laughing, and smiling all at the same time.
Shingo-san looking pretty exited too. not as excited as Noriko-san, but once he stood up, he was stoked. haha.
words can’t describe how surfing can bring out the best emotions in oneself.
and yes,the long and beautiful ride into Waikiki.
had an amazing lunch after our long surf. after we ate hot pho, Shingo-san and Noriko-san went back to their hotel to take a long afternoon nap. gosh, it must have felt great!
as for me, no time for a nap. straight back to the beach and surfing with Hattori-san. long rides of Boot Camp day 1. day 2 coming tomorrow at sunrise.
sequence from Taiwan: somebody just asked me how to do a turn. i told them to imagine it.
i told them to have confidence. know you can do it.
i told them to push 70% off the back foot and 30% off the front foot.
and i told them to believe in yourself. that’s the most important part. because if you believe in yourself, you can so more than turns, you can do anything in life…
