Breaking the Ice

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 Hashimoto-san was still a little nervous because he waves were huge.  i could tell by the look on his face.  but because he’s in Boot Camp training, i started yelling at him.  then… then he shook off the nerves and caught a super good wave!  omg, this is amazing!   looking a lot more comfortable.  i guess yelling works sometimes?  haha.  and once the real smile came out, i knew everything would be ok.   it’s called “breaking the ice.” and yes, it was ok as Hashimoto-san caught some really big and long waves.  i was so happy to see him regain his confidence! great job dude!  see you in the morning for day 3.   the waves are dropping so it will be so easy for you.   i watch wave after wave come in the afternoon.  i was really tired because i surfed all day, BUT, my need to get barreled kicked in so made a u-turn, then texted the boys and said “Mayuki leaving in 20 minutes.  if you want to go, don’t be late.”   Carter and Reid dropped everything, jumped in their cars, and sped down to the yacht club just in time for departure.   surfers will always be surfers…and the conditions were perfect as we all knew it was going to be.  good waves and good time.  it was amazing out at Big Rights! watching the sunset and enjoying the waves at the same time is like a dream.  we stayed out till pitch dark.  got the barrels i wanted, the boys got their waves, and everybody was happy.  i spent 8 hours in the water yesterday and i’m feeling more and more like a fish.  haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide