yesterday’s evening session was super cool. just a few friends surfing during the sunset is what life is all about. Reid and Carter in the golden conditions. these are the times i’m so happy just to be a surfer. 
and i’m even happier in the barrel. a place where you’re in your own world. 
as the sun sets, the waves started to pump. only a couple guys taking turns enjoying this long magical Summer swell.
coming in at dark gives you the feeling that you’ve totally maximized the day. 
stoked to be back at University of Hawaii yesterday. good place to sit down and remember the good old days. this is campus center where i use to hang out a lot. lots of memories i cherish.
and this famous painting. 
the Molokai woman is actually Tony Moniz’ grandmother. crazy! so i guess we’re related too! 
the kids enjoying their shopping time in Hawaii. so many cool goodies at the University of Hawaii Bookstore.
Peace and Shaka from the Matsubayashi-san family!
this morning Boot Camp continues. the waves were huge again and i couldn’t get a good photo because i didn’t want to get hurt. so this is all i got. i asked Hashimoto-san “do you want to surf the small waves and i can get your photo? or do you want to surf the big waves and no photos?” he said “big waves!” good answer! 
i’m so stoked for this guy. seen him come a long way from 4 years ago in his surfing. a much better surfer, and a much more confident man. 
good job dude! see you again tomorrow! waves are dropping so it’s going to be so easy!
