Deadly Hurricane Irma

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 one of the fascinating things about diving in other countries is being able to hunt different species.  sometimes you need different techniques, sometimes you don’t.  when i saw this delicious looking fish swimming in the channel on an outer island off Okinawa, i couldn’t help myself to dive down and investigate.   i swam up really calmly, tried not to look at it in the eyes, and when it came in, i took the shot from the back gill to the head.  a pretty much perfect shot.   then when i was walking through the fish market in Naha, i saw the exact same fish for sale.  it was 3,200 yen or about $30.  it’s so crazy how expensive fish is!!!   speared a nice rainbow runner too.  the best for sashimi!   Hurricane Irma is the biggest storm in history.  it’s passing by islands wreaking havoc!  storms like this are super deadly, but at the same time, storms like this are a surfers dream.  we chase it to get the ultimate ride of your life.  i’ve chased storms like this for 25 years and i know the risks, and i know the rewards.  unfortunately, Hurricane Irma claimed a young aspiring surfers life.   this 16 year old kid Zander Venezia died from surfing this storm at his home break in Barbados.  he hit the reef and drowned.   right before he drowned, he told his friend “i caught the best wave of my life.”

some news channels are reporting that he shouldn’t have been surfing those waves generated by Hurricane Irma.  yeah, a normal person would think the same.  but as surfers, we all know the risks we take.  it’s something we live with and it’s something we could die with.   most surfers want to go out with the ultimate ride of their lives.  this kid just did that.  he’s my hero.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide