had a wonderful time with Sasaki-san this morning. super cool guy that keeps on coming back and back to Hawaii. and surfing better and better each time! 
makes me so happy to see Sasaki-san catching some good waves. he told me that it might have been the best rides of his life! score!
when i said “Go,” this guy went! 
good focus and good rail surfing. 
it was a very satisfying surf session. good waves and good vibes. 
Mieko-san came to join us for lunch. we had a good talk as always. todays topic was about checking the surf report every single day. Sasaki-san told me he checks the surf report even thought he cannot surf. image driving to work knowing you can’t surf and the waves are going off??? how stressful is that??? i use to do that for 20 years of my life and it sucked. i would be a bitch if the waves were good and i’m stuck somewhere else. so i told Sasaki-san not to check the surf report unless he’s going surfing. then his life will be a lot better. i know that because my life is much better ever since i stopped checking the surf report when i couldn’t surf. try it and you’ll know what i’m talking about…
jumped on Mayuki this afternoon to catch a fish for dinner. i was targeting “uhu” and guess what? i got an uhu! it was windy, the water was dirty, but i never gave up. and once i speared one, i came straight in. so stoked to live off the sea!
