BOROBORO

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 another day, another amazing person.  Tana-san wanted to surf so today was her first time in her life!  and this was her first wave!  perfect balance, perfect smile, and perfect day!   and a very happy smile after a very happy ride.   and once Tana-san got the basics down, she kept on having perfect ride one after another.  look how stoked she is!  haha.   right when i picked Tana-san up from her hotel, i thought to myself “wow, she looks  Okinawan.”   and guess what?  i was right!   no wonder she loves the ocean, it’s in her bloodline.   and today was looking very much like Okinawa.  beauty and beauty!   a very energetic and very happy girl.  Tana-san is a woman firefighter in Osaka.  she loves to help people and save lives.  i actually learned a few things today just by talking to this amazing girl.   and i just love her t-shirt.  BOROBORO?  haha!   i had a feeling she would like to stop by a local fire station so i just pulled into one on the way back.  my friend wasn’t working today but another cool fire fighter let Tana-san check out the Hawaiian style fire truck.   it was actually my first time in one.  pretty exciting!   there is no language barrier between people who save lives.  you could just see the connection.  i’ve always respected fire fighters and i always will.  thank you Tana-san for the wonderful day of surfing.  and thank you for putting your life at risk in saving others.  keep on smiling and keep on surfing!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide