it’s middle of October and we’re still getting South Swells! weird weather pattern but i’ll take it. i don’t think anybody expected this one to be this big.
when i left my house, i already knew it would be barreling. i like when it’s super windy off shore like this because the wave turns into a beast! no easy take offs, super late drops, and boards flying everywhere. pretty dangerous when you think about it.
the most beautiful place in the world. i wish i can put my bed in here and fall asleep. right after this set broke, i seen 2 Japanese tourists on the outside??? huh? they must have gotten blown out with the wind between sets. they were right in the impact zone so i kept my eye on them. they had no clue about the waves and they had no clue how to surf. i knew it was going to get ugly very soon so i kept watching as i was surfing with Inoue-san. then i see a set break on their heads. they panic, they freak, they are in the impact zone getting pounded. they weren’t unconscious so i let the current take them in. then, i see them trying to paddle back out. that’s when i went and told them, “hey, abunai! this is not for you guys. you should go in.” they asked me “where is in?” omg, they didn’t even know which direction was the beach.
how do i know if you’re not supposed to be in the ocean without a instructor? when i see people paddle like this. you won’t get anywhere. anyway, this guy was getting drifted into he boat channel with the strong current so i ended up towing him all the way back to the beach. i was on my shortboard so it was a full on workout. i was pretty dam tired after. haha.
found this photo in a folder on my desktop. it was a cool night in Chigasaki when i was invited to a dinner with a friend. when i pulled up, there were more friends. i didn’t know what was going on until they all said “Surprise!”
cake and Jack shots all night. thank goodness i can trust all these friends because i don’t remember how i got home that night. that was 6 years ago and i still don’t remember. haha. all i know, it was a wonderful night with wonderful people! Blurry Birthday Memories…
