after yesterday’s super challenge, today was a day for some revenge! waves were still big but Inoue-san’s mind was stronger than ever. taking off on the big waves this afternoon was kind of easy for him.
and he kept on catching wave after wave after wave.
and super stoked and stoked and stoked.
i was so happy watching all the nice empty barrels breaking over me. it’s so beautiful.
by the end of our session, Inoue-san was super comfortable and confident. i’m happy to see the extreme progress in just 2 sessions. good job Inoue-san!
even though the winds were 40mph and like a typhoon, there were some classic moments. perfect glassy conditions!
i couldn’t help but get my fair share. don’t like any wave going to waste so caught a few.
and a few more. i surfed 3x today and i could have surfed even more!
then went to pick up Kawamata-san and paddled back out for the late evening session. more waves and more smiles.
i went to the beach at sunrise, and left the beach at sunset. another fulfilling day that makes me very happy! hopefully i’ll get another 9 hours of sleep tonight. see you tomorrow!
