Sleep in tent last night @ 9:30 pm.
Rain in the face @ 11:05 pm.
Sleep in the car @ 11:15 pm.
Wake up at 4:45 am.
Surf @ 6:30 am.
We’re on an island so there are all different kinds of waves. Mostly big thanks to typhoon 9.
I ask Naoka, “do you want to see normal surfing in Japan? Or do you want to see crazy surfing in Japan?
He says “Crazy surfing in Japan.”
I grab my 7’6, tell him to walk to the bridge to watch some of the biggest waves in Japan. As I got to the shore break, I thought to myself this is crazy. The waves are 10′ + and kind of out of control. Just to get past the shore break is a challenge. Somehow I time it perfectly and make it out safely. Then for the rest of the session, I catch one wave, then get pounded by 2. It was a challenging, but dangerous. I’m just glad to be alive.
Typhoon 9 is no bullshit and wait till you see the photos.
