when i checked the waves from the bridge yesterday, it looked big and out of control. the whole ocean looked mad and waves were breaking all over the place. i watched for a while and saw a nice peak on the left side that was inconsistent, but when a big one came, it was big. i decided to stick to my game plan and sit there waiting for the right wave. this was my first wave. after i caught it, i felt good. then as i was paddling out, a 10′ set broke on my head. good morning kirby!
i keep on telling everybody that the waves in japan are crazy. when it gets big, it gets big. compared to hawaii, japan is much more challenging. why? because there are no lifeguards, and you have to get past the shorebreak to get out. you think that’s easy? take a good look. if you time it wrong, your dead.
when i got out to the lineup, there were only 2 surfers in the ocean. one was shinpei horiguchi, the other was this guy. i don’t know his name but if you do, please let me know. this photo belongs to him. i’m sure he will be stoked as i sure would. this is definitely the photo of the day!
wanted to thank shinsuke matsukawa for taking all these wonderful photos, and also from driving me all around japan.
