wow, woke up early and checked this secret spot. perfect waves and nobody out. had the most beautiful session on this bright Sunday. stoked!
how can people complain about driving in the traffic when you have spectacular views like this??? i sure can’t.
i’ve been teaching this teenager how to drive since she was 14 years old. i teach her how to drive like i teach people how to surf. sometimes we fight, sometimes she cries, but the end result is always good. if she doesn’t pass the test, it’s partially my fault. and if she passes, i’ll be happier than her because i won’t have to be her taxi driver anymore. so driving down to take her test was nerve racking for both of us. i gave her a few tips on how to parallel park, how to be confident, and most importantly, how to stay calm.
and guess what? she passed on her first try! the person who tested her said she did super good. now we have another 16 year old on the road so be careful! she can drive to school everyday and have some major freedom. i remember when i had my freedom at 15 years old. i felt like the happiest boy driving to school that day. anyway, congratulations my little Princess!
want to thank Kubota-san for the cool wrapped up snack.
omg, i love these! i don’t even know what it’s called, but i like to eat it after a long day of surfing.
Mateus slept over my house last night so here he is brushing his teeth before sleep. good boy Mateus!
i’ve been spending 3 hours each day researching for my next trip. and if everything aligns right, this is where i’ll be getting barreled. can’t wait!
