i’ve always wanted to be a teacher. not just a surf teacher, but a teacher in life. so i decided to give this kid a real life lesson on how to become a professional surfer. i gave him a day to decide because it was a day before i left that this trip came together. one thing about becoming a professional surfer is the ocean dictates your life, nothing else.
Aoi is on a 8 day journey that includes airports, long flights, long car rides, transits, carrying baggage, not much sleep, and of course, he has to keep up with his school homework.
but there’s treats in-between like this special Wakayama ramen by Marutaya.
was happy to see Seigo-san and have a wonderful lunch with him. i want Aoi to meet successful people like this because you have to see it to live it. the more successful people you surround yourself with, the more chance you will be successful yourself.
remember all those oysters? yes, Aoi jumped into the freezing cold water with me and worked really hard. he caught most of this and it ended up feeding 9 happy people later that night.
he got to eat at Ushio the first night, and then at En the next. here is En Master chef preparing the fresh catch. omg, we ate all these oysters and it was amazing. lots of photos coming soon.
but for now, we’re moving on because time is flying. to become a pro surfer, you have to be able to figure out things on your own. figure out to carry all your stuff on your own because nobody’s going to do it for you. i sure aint.
the way i teach is not by spoiling. in fact, you’re pretty much on your own. that’s how i learned and that’s how i remembered. you will make mistakes which is ok. only ok if you can learn from them. it’s a hard life out there to be a surfer so if you have be able to survive. here Aoi is changing Japanese money to Taiwan money when we landed in Kaohsiung. when he was too busy trying to figure it out, i snuck in behind and tried to steal his bag. and he actually caught me. haha. good boy! this kid is learning fast…
anyway, we’re finally near the beach after a 4 hour ride. will be surfing really soon! finally at the end of the rainbow!
