Life is Good Kid!

300

going to the night market in a little small city in Taiwan is fun. you never know what you’ll see.

this squid just thrown on the grill.

went walking down the street looking for some food. came across this guy selling my favorite roast duck! it was so juicy!

not too many places in the world you can eat street food everyday and not get sick. i’d have to say that Taiwan has some of the most safest food in the world. try this in other counties and there’s a good chance you will be sitting on the toilet all day.

i have thousands of stories to tell. some very scary ones. in fact, this trip was pretty dangerous when i think about it. from getting pounded on the shore break, to almost head on collisions with a bus, i’m just happy we survived. nothing is safe in this world as Aoi is getting pounded in the shore break.

it’s days like this that makes you strong. this kid got stronger and stronger by the day.

as we were waiting for our flight back to Japan, the UFC fight main event just started. i wanted to watch this so bad and couldn’t believe how good our timing was. Matsu and i were stuck to my iPhone as the fight started.

the Champion Hawaiian Max Holloway, beat Jose Also again! omg, it was so exciting!!!

we were screaming in the restaurant and getting stink eye from other customers. it’s hard to keep quiet when the adrenaline is flowing so fast!

i don’t know who was more happy, Max Holloway or us? haha.

surfed in the dark, ate breakfast at 7am, packed, and went on the 4 hour drive to the airport. an amazing end to an amazing Taiwan…

want to thank my travel buddies. thank you Kimura-san for always traveling with me. i’m seriously glad you’re still alive. i thought we lost you a couple times on this trip. thank you Matsu for just being a brother. when we said our bye’s at Kansai Airport, Aoi turned to me and said “Matsu-san is a really nice guy.” and thank you Aoi for wanting to learn something you could only learn by trying. you did fantastic. but you must have been thinking to yourself “these 3 old guys are crazy!” haha. yes we are. and if you continue to travel and explore the world, you will become crazy like us. life is good kid!

just landed back in Hawaii. the first thing Aoi said was “i’m glad to be back home.” i told him “i feel the same way each and every time i travel for the past 30 years….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide