gosh, i felt like i lost a full day because i got poisoned. i still don’t know what made me sick, but i’m just glad i feel better now. food poisoning is the worst experience you can imagine. you get the chills, your body shuts down, you get fever, you sweat, you can’t sleep, your mind doesn’t work, and you’re running to the bathroom every 15 minutes. i wouldn’t want to see anybody going through what i just did.
on Asayama-san’s second day, we surfed this super secret spot. so secret that only a few know. not even my best surfer friends know about this spot. nobody out, good waves, and awesome rides. stoked! this is the only photo you will see from there.
after a good surf, it was pizza and beer. so good!
then last night Asayama-san ate a poke bowl from Pioneer Salon. it’s really good!
yesterday morning the waves were so challenging! nobody wanted to go out, but Nakamoto-san and i paddled out into the stormy conditions. it took some time to figure out the waves, but once we did, it was long rides baby!
as you can see, nobody was out except us crazy surfers. haha.
then the sun came out and it was beautiful. more long rides and great surfing!
Nakamoto-san ran the marathon too! omg, total respect! he asked me to run it with him next year and i said “no thank you.” haha.
want to congratulate Nara-san too! good job girl! you guys are crazy!
drove over to Waimanalo to get some Lilikoi Butter. it’s open only on the weekends but we just drove up yesterday and knocked on the guys door. haha. a cool guy with lots of aloha!
we left there with 22 bottles. wow!
the best Lilikoi Butter on the planet. homemade with lots of aloha.
drove through Sandy Beach on the way back and the waves were absolutely perfect! super clean and uncrowded. Asayama-san ripped it up! so stoked!
