the winds were onshore all day yesterday so junky waves everywhere. then the storm came around 5pm, then the winds behind it turned to North. North winds means perfect glassy Sandy Beach. and we were there at the perfect time. lucky? no, we planned it…
when you can walk a line of confidence, you can do anything. so paddling out to a new place when it’s getting dark is easy. this is how Kelly Slater use to walk out to his heats when he knew he would win it easily. this is confidence.
Asayama-san paddling out slowly and examining the variables. that’s something only watermen do.
then once the ocean starts to move and sends a wave, you turn around, paddle hard, and GO!
you make the drop and the rest is so easy. look how beautiful this photo is! perfect wave, perfect ride, and perfect sunset!
you did great again Asayama-san! i’m so proud of you!
today was another day, so another experience. we went to check out this totally locals only secret spot. the waves were getting bigger and bigger right in front of us.
and some super big barrels too! it was amazing.
then we went to get a few waves for ourselves. four days and four different spots. that’s the plan…
ever since i traveled out of America, i’ve heard complaint after complaint about CNN. then i realized myself that a lot of the news is either fake, made up, or overly exaggerated. and i haven’t seen a news network in my life bash an elected President more than them. so while the recent suicide bomb attempt in New York was happening, CNN was reporting how many Coke’s the President drinks in a day. what??? i’m surprised that news network is still around. sad…
