yesterday was such a long day that i forgot what happened when i got home. haha. somebody asked me how do i surf 3 rounds a day. i told them, i sometimes surf 4. no problem. here is Ujibayashi-san during our PM session. the waves were so good and so long!
happy ride, happy face!
when you’re calm, you’re cool. this is calm, and this is cool.
i love this photo because it shows a lot of confidence, and a lot of determination. this is how you should be surfing!
thank you Ujiyabashi-san! you surfed so good! see you in a few days!
then i went straight back to the beach after i picked up Okumoto-san. he just arrived earlier that day so surfing was on his mind. and we ended up surfing just the 2 of us at this beautiful wave.
gosh, i love the view of Diamond Head!
Okumoto-san putting the board on the rail. he wanted to learn how to do a cutback so i taught him on the beach.
then i taught him in the water by example. he was paddling out and watching me. then he caught his next wave and did the exact same thing. it was amazing.
thank you Okumoto-san for the wonderful evening session. see you again this evening for more cutback Boot Camp!
what a wonderful world we live in…
