Hey, Why do you Surf?

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spent an amazing evening with Iwakawa-san. just us, the waves, and the amazing golden sky.

super stoked on surfing!

once you get the basic surfing down like this, the rest is easy. good job Iwakawa-san. hope you go back to Shikoku and get some amazing rides!

Quiksilver just bought out Billabong. i’m curious to see how they will run both businesses that were arch rivals from the 70’s. i’m very curious and will be watching closely.

and i’m very curious about foil surfing. watching Micah getting better and better each day. the last time i did it, i almost broke my face. i’m sure i’ll be a little nervous the next time i jump on one again. can’t wait for that.

seen these 3 girls having fun in the surf. they were absolutely super dangerous, but having fun at the same time.

surfing out Laniakea, i met this super cool surfer that was sitting by us. after a couple waves, he looked at me and said “hey, you’re the Youtube guy? the Go-Naminori guy?” i said “yeah.” he said, “i watched one of your videos 3 years ago, then decided i have to surf!”

three years later, this kid is ripping! his life will never be the same… a pleasure to meet you Alex!

and speaking about Youtube, i’m wondering if it was this video that got him hooked on surfing. after watching this over and over, i would want to surf too if i didn’t. one of the most beautiful days you will ever see in Hawaii. this is surfing, this is Hawaii…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide