gosh, where is everybody? Kanie-san and i paddled out this morning and there was only one other person out. so it was perfect no stress riding like this!
surfing in Hawaii for the first time, you won’t find it this empty on any other Sunday of the year. no way!
after some minor adjustments, it was perfect surfing. it’s amazing how you can surf so much better just by looking forward.
i’ve been surfing with a lot of people from Nara Prefecture recently. Kanie-san is another one that travels 6 hours to surf the beautiful Nakamura beach breaks.
my nephew Micah as been practicing foil surfing every morning. he told me today “uncle, this is the first time in my life i dawn patrolled.” haha.
great surfing girl! keep looking forward and keep on riding forever!
some hot pho to follow. then i took a short nap. another perfect day in paradise…
