Big Happy Haleiwa!

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went to surf Haleiwa this morning. the waves were 2-4′ with 8′ sets. haha. been a while since i caught waves that big so it was pretty fun!

seen a Japanese surfer that shouldn’t have been out there. the current was way to strong for his really short board. so the lifeguard is going with the rescue.

thank goodness there are lifeguards watching. i give these guys lots of respect.

i was going to go over and scold the Japanese guy, but i think he knew he shouldn’t have been out there. when you have to paddle back in through the harbor, you know you’re not supposed to be out there.

want to thank Yoshida-san for the Ginger Power! something i’m looking forward too!

want to thank Mr. and Mrs. Ozaki-san for the wonderful treats!

udon and soba for dinner tomorrow!

and want to thank Uemura-san for the ramen! perfect lunch special!

and want to thank UPS for delivering half of my toy on time. can’t wait to put it together!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide