My Gas Pedal

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secret spot surfing continues. just absolutely perfect waves and nobody around. my friend caught over 30 waves in 4.5 hours of surfing. i couldn’t believe he still wanted to stay out. right as i was telling him that it’s not good to surf too much, his leash got caught on the reef on his next wave and he got scratched up. so we went in. haha.

i was teaching him how to put the gas on the pedal. 60% surfing weight on the back foot, and 40% on the front. try it and you’re surfboard will work the way it’s designed to.

went to seat some yakiniku with Takahashi-san. we just love this place.

lots of meat for much needed protein.

can’t believe we ate all of this.

and ended it up some spicy noodles.

then this is what i had for lunch the following day. haha. too much spicy food for me!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide