i surfed sunrise and sunset again. morning started off with Segawa-san doing his amazing off the lips!
you have to be a good surfer to get your board up like this. i love these off the lips the best. in Japan, this is called “off the rip!” haha.
Segawa-san caught some good lefts too. super long and good.
nice backside off the rip!
i didn’t have my foil today, but still had fun carving the clean faces.
you’re a good surfer dude!
hot pho for lunch, and cool nap for afternoon. haha.
stopped by my favorite kimchee shop on the way home.
my selection for this weeks dinner.
then picked up the lovely ladies for Day 2 Boot Camp! surfed until sunset. now it’s beer time! cheers!
