after getting so many emails about the unidentified surfer, i finally was directed to the right person. this surfer out on that big morning during typhoon 9 is KIYOSHI KANEDA. he caught the biggest wave of the day! thank you all for the info.
i’ve also been getting lots of emails from people around the world asking me where that wave was. sorry, i don’t reply. that wave is one of the best waves in japan. in fact, one of the best waves in the world. i’ve heard of other people writing the spots location on their blogs and i don’t think that’s cool. this cyber world is small and if the word gets out, there will be hundreds of foreign surfers there by next year. the locals there are super nice, the location is pure nature, and the waves are untouched and still a secret to many. let’s keep it that way!
and the sunrises there? just look for yourself! magic!!!