omg, i was waiting patently all day long for the tide to come up. so when 2pm came, i went straight to Diamond Head because i knew it would be good. good wind, good swell, good weather, and good everything.
i paddle out and see all my friends surfing. i use to surf here every single day for about 10 years straight so these guys are my buddies. good to see the boys controlling the lineup and surfing super good.
i felt like a kid again! i foiled Diamond Head for my first time. super good waves and super long rides. i caught a couple all the way to the beach! seen some people looking scared as i passed by, and i don’t blame them. pretty soon, i’ll be in full control. but for now, i’m only 5% in control. haha.
i swear this is the craziest thing i’ve ever done in my life. super high risk, and even higher return. i’m so happy!
Aoi paddles out with the biggest smile. this kid is getting handsomer by the day. and surfing better by the day too!
Tony Moniz is the very reason i am the surfer i am today. he pushed me mentally and physically into surfing crazy big waves. this guy has absolutely no fear. we use to surf giant north shore together every single day for many years. now, we talk to each other everyday. it’s not about big waves, it’s about where we are going to foil. today, we planned to meet here. as for tomorrow, who knows??? haha.
i seen one of my other friend out there. he said he tried foiling once, got hurt, went to the hospital, and quit. he thinks i’m crazy. but i think he is too. the reward totally outweighs the risk…
came home and ate the freshest Opihi. this is the abalone of Hawaii!
all you need is a few of these to make you happy. and i got a few more for my friends to make them happy. now everybody is happy!
i found this cool shell on the rocks. it was still alive so i threw it back in the ocean. there will be a day i find a dead one to add to my shell collection…
anyway, another great day in my journal. i’m so happy!
