it was one of the most ugliest days of the year. heavy rain, flooding, cloudy, and dark. waves in town were onshore and ugly too. not even good enough to foil. haha. BUT…
i picked up Fukuda-san at 4pm and everything changed in minutes. the sun came out, the waves got good, and we scored a perfect surf session all to ourselves.
there were so many waves coming in. non-stop taking turns catching wave after wave.
then the wind started to blow off shore! omg, it got even better and better. look at Fukuda-san’s nice wave into Diamond Head. he just arrived today and it’s his first time to Hawaii. he must have been loving this view.
yeah, it was completely empty! only perfect waves and the two of us.
i hope Fukuda-san doesn’t think it’s like this everyday because it isn’t.
i just love pushing the swallow tail.
got more and more waves. then a couple guys paddled out as we were tired and went in. great surfing Fukuda-san! see you tomorrow for day 2 Boot Camp!
i paddled in and seen this Japanese couple fishing. the guy caught a fish and showed it to me. he was so happy! i didn’t have the heart to tell him that the Talipia he just caught is not really an edible fish in Hawaii. in fact, nobody eats it. i hope he used a lot of salt and shoyu when he prepared it.
