i’d never think the day will come at my age when i can say “i surfed the longest session of my life.” it all started early this morning when the sun was rising. oh it was so beautiful.
this is the best place in the world to be starting off the day. in the ocean!
Day 2 Boot Camp and the boys did great. Oda-san surfing confidently and happily.
Ryu-san tried the smaller board and caught so many nice waves.
then the 3 of us riding along and having a great time. this was about 9am i believe.
then Oda-san kept on wanting more and more. this was wave 30 for him.
then Ryu-san kept on wanting more and more and more. this was wave 30 but he wanted 40. and about this time, it was 11am i believe.
this young longboard pro from Shikoku came out for her second round this morning. she must have been tripping out that we were still out. haha. but she was surfing super smooth and super good.
finally the boys got hungry and wanted to go in. this was about 12:45pm i believe. what??? yeah, we surfed for 5.5 hours!!! that’s by far my longest surf session in my life. my friends on the beach were freaking out that i just came in from the early sunrise paddle out.
went to go get some fuel for our bodies. the best hulihuli chicken on the island! i’m sure everybody had a great afternoon nap. thank you boys! then i went to Diamond Head to foil but the waves were too small so i passed it up. maybe God was telling me to “slow down.” haha.
