had an amazing day in this wild wild weather! started off with Sugawara-san at Diamond Head.
weather was funky and looking so unpredictable. but when we paddled out, it was pretty beautiful and waves were fun.
at one time, we had the whole Diamond Head ocean to ourselves!!!
then the typhoon came! haha. super hard rain but the waves cleaned up.
Sugawara-san is an amazing surfer! i couldn’t believe how good she was. surfing for 18 years and it shows in every turn. cool surfer from Ishinomaki and friends with Azumi-san so that makes it even better. look at this freaking beautiful bottom turn!!!
and look at all the surfers out! haha. yeah, we scored! i was watching Sugawara-san riding so many long waves and we went in after her arms got tired.
girl, you are one of the best Japanese longboard surfers i’ve ever surfed with, including the professionals!
an acaibowl on the way home. what an amazing person. i was listening to Sugawara-san’s story about barely escaping the tsunami by running away from it and staying 2 days in a strangers house on the second floor. she lost her whole house. a true survivor and a very strong surfer. lots of respect for her and Azumi-san, and everybody that had to go through the tsunami back in 2011. you guys are and always will be in my heart…
came home and ate a hot bowl of Okinawan soba. it was delicious!
then met my foil partners Tony and Carter back in the rain.
today was the first time i caught a chest high wave. it felt like i was taking a drop at 10′ Sunset beach! then today was the first time i did a full round house cutback. it felt like i was Kelly Slater! can’t wait to do it again!
