i wanted to surf twice so bad yesterday. so i pulled up to Diamond Head in the evening and was ready. but when i seen the lighting starting, i decided to wait.
i saw a guy grab 20 cans out of this one rubbish can in less than 2 minutes. that means he made $1 in 2 minutes when he recycles it. that’s pretty dam good!
the weather started getting worst and worst. i really wanted to go out but i seen this lightning bolt hit the lineup. had 2 guys out but they came right in after that.
there was lighting everywhere. these guys wanted to get out of there.
jumped into their truck and was out of there. that’s when i thought “now’s my chance to surf DH alone again!”
i waited in my truck for about 2 hours. read a magazine, chatted with friends, and watched the lightning show.
then it got so bad that i couldn’t even see the ocean. so i decided to go home. kind of sad, but that’s life…
there was flooding everywhere! all this brown water will go into the ocean again. omg!
i saw rivers flowing down the streets. some even going into houses!!!
drove home cautiously. although i wanted to surf really bad, i didn’t want to push it. there’s always tomorrow…
