another beautiful day from sunrise to sunset. surfed 3 rounds totaling 6.5 hours. i couldn’t be happier being back in the ocean! this is my drive to the beach everyday. amazing huh?
met my buddy Carter early this morning. Carter saw me foil a month ago and said “i’ve never seen you so happy on a waist high wave before.” that’s when he decided he needed to join the club.
gosh, it was so beautiful!
seen Edmond out there early as usual. feels pretty safe surfing with this retired legend lifeguard. this guy has saved more lives then you can imagine.
then i seen another familiar face. a friend i haven’t seen since 1990. a waterman and a really good surfer from Kauai. if it wasn’t for foiling, we probably wouldn’t have crossed paths again.
yeah!!! i’m so stoked for Carter! i was riding on the side and seen him get the most amazing wave! it was his first time of getting up so high, and surely not his last. i love this photo!
i was yelling from the side because i was super stoked for him.
then he fell and his board almost hit my face. that’s when i thought i shouldn’t be foiling and shooting at the same time.
Carter and I were like 2 kids again. reminded me of how we use to be so stoked on surfing when we were just 13 years old. pure stoke!
finally i rode a long wave and pumped all the way out to the lineup. so happy.
took Mr. and Mrs. Marumoto-san surfing at Ala Moana. had so much fun. then checked DH on the way back home. got a call from Tony so we met up and surfed until sunset. it was just him and i with the whole ocean to ourselves. having the time of our lives…
