can you believe the day before yesterday was the worst weather of the year? then look at yesterday! just one day and back to paradise…
Marumoto-san surfed good! super powerful man that wanted to ride more and more.
yes, happy!
Yoko-san was smiling each and every ride. her very first surf in her life and it went super good!
yes, happy too!
super nice couple that got to surf in the best weather with nobody else out!
good ride, good smile.
good ride, good day.
thank you guys for the wonderful surf session. you both did great! keep on surfing!
Tony and i were talking about lineups. about mannerism, about localism, and about respect. Tony is well known but there are some people that don’t know who he is. and when they cross paths, it’s not pleasant. you don’t want to mess with a true Hawaiian waterman. if you do, the whole island will hurt you.
when we use to surf 20′ outer reefs 30 years ago, Tony would yell “GO!” and i would go. even though i thought i would die, i would just go. that was the way i learned how to surf big waves. maybe it’s not the safest way, but it was Tony’s way. and with all the respect i have for him, i listened then, and i will listen now. that’s how i learned. so when i tell people to go, they better go too! haha.
