another 3 round surfing day totaling 6 hours. started early morning surfing Diamond Head. it was so dam good!!! perfect long rides in the air!
round 2 was Father and Son. this is 7 year old Hoku-kun’s first time watching Papa Miwazawa-san surfing the long lefts!
then it was our turn. this boy was totally focused!
Hoku-kun’s first ride of his life! he just popped up and kept looking forward. good boy!
he was so stoked when we completed the ride perfectly. Hoku-kun’s face was glowing!
then he wanted more and more. before we paddled out, he said he wanted to ride 5 waves. but we ended up riding 15 waves!
so cool because everybody went in and it was only us. Miyazawa-san riding the long lefts to himself.
about an hour into our session, i caught a big wave and the both of us flipped over. so i grabbed Hoku-kun while we were tumbling underwater. i could feel the kid freaking out but as soon as we popped up, i looked into his freaked out eyes and said “OMG, that was the best ride ever! even better than Disneyland!!!” he looked puzzled, the a few seconds after, he smiled. and then he wanted more!
so cool to share these kind of experiences. Hoku-kun is about the same age my Step-Father took me tandem surfing for the first time. it’s one of those memories that is still is etched in my heart forever.
all the 3 of us sharing one wave.
good boy Hoku-kun. you did great! i’m so proud of your bravery and after today, i know you will be a strong boy! have fun at Tokyo Disneyland but now i think you realize that todays rides will beat any ride there.
started in the ocean at sunrise. couldn’t believe how perfect DH was!
and ended it at sunset with Toshi-san. many more photos and stories coming tomorrow. but for now, i must sleep because tomorrow will be 3 more rounds at 7 hours. good night.
