Stink Durian and Cow Shit

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i was so happy to see Mamiko-san surfing 10x better than last year. she’s been practicing and it’s been paying off! stoked!

and Aunty Mamiko-san brought her niece Rieko-chan to surf too. i was so happy she got up and rode some very long waves.

i think she was happy too.

Mamiko-san surfed absolutely perfectly! she didn’t even get her hair wet the whole time!

as a surf instructor, it’s a dream to see your students surfing and having fun. as a photographer, it’s a dream to capture moments like this. that’s two of my dreams on one wave…

this was the best wave of the afternoon!

thank you ladies for the wonderful time!

Kimura-san seems to be having fun in Bali. trying different kinds of food. in this case, goat! poor little goat. haha.

wow, looks pretty good!

good to see the boys living the life…

and i know Kimura-san didn’t take this photo because it’s too good. haha. must have been Seigo-san right?

Kimura-san’s first taste of stinky durian. and he loved it! so everybody send Kimura-san durian! haha.

and speaking of stink. seeing a cow in Bali reminds me of 25 years ago. my Balinese friend Budin called me over near the cows in his cousins farm, then he kicked a pile of shit all over me! from head to toe, i was covered with cow shit. i stood there in disbelief while all the Bali boys were laughing. that was Budin’s way of showing his love. love you too brother! but if anybody else does that to me, i’d kill them….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide