today was an amazing day. the worst waves if you’re a shortboarder, but the best waves if you’re a foiler.
i pulled up to Diamond Head before 8am. i thought i’d paddle out for a couple waves, but ended up surfing 3 hours and riding wave after wave after wave. i couldn’t stop!
i’m practicing my round house cutbacks now. going out, and doing the biggest cutback you can ever imagine. something impossible by a shortboard. twice the radius, and three times the speed.
and when you fall, you fall hard. see that razor blade foil coming back at you? that’s what you have to be careful about.
seen my friend Danno out this morning. he just started so i was giving him some pointers. and being the great surfer he is, everything came naturally.
Danno is so hooked! i know exactly how he feels and it’s pretty dam cool. got a new foil buddy in the group.
then Hayato wanted to try so we went back in the afternoon. i never want to see any of my friends getting hurt so i’m pretty cautious about this. but i know Hayato can do it so he’s one of a very few i’d let borrow a board.
went to pick up Joshua and Seth’s board for Hayato to use so it’s been tested very well.
then Hayato got up pretty fast! then he wanted to turn and try new things. that’s when i said “hey buddy, slow down. that’s how i got hurt. one step at a time.” haha. Hayato must have caught over 30 waves.
the last time i seen Hayato this happy after a wave was 10 years ago in the Mentawai’s. we were surfing perfect 8′ big barreling HT’s taking turns getting the barrels of our lives. then today was waist high and onshore and we were feeling the same kind of excitement. Hayato told me “now i know why you can surf these kind of waves for 3 hours.” haha. welcome to the foiling group dude!
my afternoon session was 2 hours and 17 minutes according to my Apple Watch. i caught 22 waves, rode them for 1.6KM, and was riding for almost 6 minutes. add that to my 34 waves this morning and my total is 56 waves ridden in 5 hours. this is absolutely the best exercise i’ve ever done in my life. exercise and have fun at the same time? that’s a dream guys!
