my surfing world is getting bigger and bigger. been foiling with the old time legends. lifeguards, big wave riders, police, and all kinds of new guys. once one goes out, we all go out. and in the meantime, i’m learning so much from these experienced watermen… these guys are “Men who foil mountains.”
the worst the waves are, the better it is. we are riding some huge waves today challenging each other. on a couple waves, i felt like i was taking a 15′ drop at Waimea Bay. it was the most exciting thing i’ve experienced in a while.
i’m trying to catch bigger and bigger waves each day. some i make, most i don’t. but i’ll never give up because the thrill outweighs the risks.
surfed for a little over an hour and caught 15 waves. rode it for 1.5km.
top speed at 25.9km/h so that’s like flying over the water!
i was so hungry so went to my secret spot and ate the best pigs feet soup on the island. it was so good!
went back out this afternoon for 2 hours and caught 22 waves. i can’t believe i rode 37 waves in just 3 hours! that’s crazy. no wonder i’m so tired at the end of the day…
then came home and did some house work. then now going to sleep at 8pm and dream about tomorrow.
