Surfing Hawaii: Wind Swell

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there is a big East swell happening right now in Hawaii so if you know where to look, you will score. just like how we did today!

Rikita-san riding the wild windy waves pretty smoothly.

it’s been a while since i short boarded and i had a great time today. so fun!

Diane’s surfing super good recently. she’s a charger!

Shayna with the smooth smile bottom turn.

first time surfing this spot for Rikita-san. it was the lowest tide it gets and luckily we came in without any scratches.

hanging out all day with someone that likes to go with the flow is the coolest thing. no plan but we’ll always find something fun to do.

but first, we have to fill up our hungry stomachs. the spicy seafood noodle soup did the job.

Rikita-san likes to go to new places so i took him to my favorite dessert place.

this was his creation.

and this was mine.

then got a call from Tony who was in Waikiki. he said “Kirby, the waves are good and nobody is out now!” so Rikita-san and i headed there right away. and yes, Tony was right! good waves and nobody out. so lucky.

then came home and watched Joshua win his heat in Australia pretty easily.

the winners interview. so happy for this kid! Seth made his heat too so they’ll be surfing tomorrow. go boys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide