ooppps, forgot to post this. too much water in my brain. haha…
yesterday morning was so beautiful. blue sky and clean waves.
lucky to have my all day surf reporters. if it wasn’t for Tony calling me, this session would have never happened. had fun people watching in Waikiki. i can sit there all day long.
just Tony, Rikita-san, and i surfing one of the most crowded spot on the island on any other day. i wonder where everybody was??? we pretty much rode every wave that came through.
Rikita-san knows how to have fun. it doesn’t matter what board you ride, what matters is how you end up riding it.
smiling the whole way while i was foiling behind. now that i can get higher with the foil, the photo actually looks better. cool!
our last wave in as we were so tired. what a lucky day for us!
i surfed with Tony on the biggest 20′ outer reefs before. but for some reason, these waves seem bigger and scarier for us! haha.
many people try this and love it. many people try this and quit. and many people try this and are still trying this. haha. it’s frustrating, dangerous, and frustrating. haha.
when i was in Japan last week, i watched the Japan team beat the USA team in curling. then USA ended up winning the gold medal? wow! amazing comeback!
