when i see something that looks pretty dangerous, i get very concerned. i seen that catamaran trying to make it to shore on this big East swell. the first wave broke over the whole boat!
then i seen the second one coming and i thought it was over. i started paddling toward there because the catamaran looked like it was going to flip over. luckily, it didn’t but i’m sure the captain was freaking out.
good to see Johnny Boy Gomes surfing out there. once a Pipeline Masters Champion, now he paddles around enjoying the beautiful swells in town.
the lifeguards on the jetskis came out to see if everyone was ok.
this guy was ripping out there!
i caught the biggest wave so far on the foil. i thought i was going to die when i fell. it was the craziest wipeout i’ve had in a while.
good to see the Japanese tourists enjoying the cloudy days.
found these photos of Kelia taken by Heywood on the internet. she was telling me about her crazy trip to Tahiti. pulling out on this one.
this is the worst possible place you’ll ever want to be.
and this is the best possible place you’ll ever want to be. glad Kelia survived…
