ever since i started foiling, my surfing life has changed. it’s like starting to surf all over again and i can feel the same excitement i felt 40 years ago. i feel like a kid again and this adrenaline is making me very happy!
and to watch my closest friends feel the exact same thing as i’m feeling is amazing. the beers taste a lot better after a good session. Carter Lee on Cloud 9!
foiling has brought Tony Moniz and i much closer than we ever were. the excitement after every ride and cheering each other on is so precious. and moments like this sunset session is totally priceless…
Hayato came to Hawaii 3 weeks ago. he always asked me to go surf the North Shore but i told him “no thank you, i’d rather foil in town.” by his reaction back then, i could tell he couldn’t understand what i was feeling because nobody else could either. he probably thought i was joking. then after the first time i took him out to the worst waves at Diamond Head to foil, he told me “omg, now i know why you don’t want to go to the North Shore anymore.” haha. then he goes back to Okinawa and the next day, buys a foil, and now he’s foiling! haha. welcome to the club!
we were out surfing the other day and my friend Danno was foiling. he just started so like everyone else, he looks like a beginner. but what people don’t know is that Danno surfs shortboard super good!!! my friends that were out with me that day didn’t believe me when i told them that. haha. hey Danno, your day will come…
i still feel like a beginner too. most local surfers in these spots i never surfed before think i’m a Japanese tourist beginner surfer. i sit in the inside and ride the leftovers while they catch all the good waves. that’s what gives me the drive to get better and better each day. when i do, i’ll fly past them like lightning and i ain’t stopping… can’t wait for that! but in the meantime, i’m going to be Loyal to the Foil…
