so fun surfing with Oshima-san. just watching the stoke makes me so happy.
surfing better and better each wave. i always tell him “little by little.” haha.
i caught 2 waves this morning and it looked like this. smooth rides!
when a wave is approaching and you want to ride it, this is how you paddle for it. relax, smile, and enjoy the ride!
and when you relax and smile, your body connects with the wave. that is surfing!
so happy to see the sun out again! it’s been so long!
another amazing session Oshima-san. see you tomorrow bright and early!
went to check out some new places in Kakaako. i felt like i was in San Diego or something???
found some pretty good food along the way. so good!
then my friend Carter and i jumped on Mayuki and found a little swell in the ocean that was perfect for us. we had a blast…
