check out this photo i found of Seth on a trip to Shikoku when he was a little kid. he wrote his name in the sand which i thought was so cute. back then, he was chasing his dream to become a respected Hawaiian professional surfer. now, he’s living that dream…
i just love the rare East swells we get in town. if you know where to look, you will find perfect waves with almost nobody out. just ask Rikita-san.
empty lineups and happy girls who surf.
and the sunsets are amazing!
just a couple days ago, some villagers hunted down and killed this rare Sumatran Tiger. for people around the world, this is a senseless act. but for the villagers in Sumatra, they had other reasons. reasons you can’t comprehend unless you live in their culture. i’m going there next month for a surf trip and i’ll explorer this topic a little more.
but until i leave Hawaii again, i will continue to enjoy my new life. a life i love so much…
