Tense Moments

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watching the Volcom Pro was very tense for me. in fact, it was very tense for all of us. i knew Joshua was nervous. he had to have been. surfing against the worlds best at huge perfect Pipeline will make any kid poop in their pants. i’ll never forget that rollercoaster day that had the happiest ending you could ever think of. watching it on the web was one thing, and being there was another. the best contest day of my life…

speaking about tense, i know Ueda-san was nervous today surfing out Ala Moana for the first time. but everything was perfect so i knew he would shine.

once he got up on this very first wave, it only got better and better.

that’s when i saw the bright surfers smile!

Ueda-san told me he rode the longest wave of his life!

and the next one was even longer! perfect complete rides from start to finish. very impressive!

great job Ueda-san! see you tomorrow for Day 2 Boot Camp!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide