want to thank my friend Brandon for making me the best laulau’s ever! whenever he cooks some for me, i buy a bag of poi and some lomi salmon. it’s the best Hawaiian meal ever!
went to Sandy Beach this morning to foil with Carter. nobody was out! then after i came in, a lady that was on the beach asked me “did you see the tiger shark?” i said “what?” she said “you didn’t watch the news last night? there was a 14′ tiger shark swimming in the shorebreak so they closed the beach.” i told her “thank you for telling me after i came in.” haha.
checked Diamond Head this evening and couldn’t believe how small it was. the smallest i’ve seen it in a very long time.
so i sat and watched for about an hour. then saw the Hokulea sail on by. so cool!
the East swell finally faded away, but not the memories. Joshua Moniz styling on the foil.
Carter Lee with the beautiful cutback.
i just love surfing the East side because it feels like i’m in Jurassic Park!
pack up the foils boys. get ready for the next swell! what? new swell tomorrow? yeah!
