look at all the clouds and rain! i forgot what the sun looks like. i love this weather, but i feel sorry for all the tourists. kawaiso ne.
and more winter weather all week.
but even with the weather being this bad, the East side still looks so beautiful.
and so emerald from the water. i feel like i’m in a different world.
seen something swimming around in the lineup this morning. i thought it was a shark but i still didn’t want to go in. the waves were way too good.
then the smallest baby Hawaiian monk seal swam right up to me. maybe he was looking for Mommy?
so cute! just playing in the waves enjoying the morning with us.
and omg, the waves were so good! i caught 20 waves in 1 hour 45 minutes. rode it for over 2 kilometers and my wave time was over 7 minutes. i was averaging 45 seconds each ride. that’s crazy!
went home, ate lunch, took a nap, then felt like riding 20 waves again. so went to Diamond Head and was so happy to see super good waves! paddled out by myself and had the session of my life. today was a very good day in my surfing log. sleeping early. good night.