i just love these photos! it shows the action at that very moment.
Sasaki-san on a good take off. this his how you do it.
and this is where your arms should be, and this is how your knees should be bent. this is absolutely perfect surfing style!
and when you look forward and surf with grace, you will have the best rides of your life.
great job Sasaki-san!
and yeah, great timing to meet the real Seth Moniz.
after each of our working day comes to an end, we meet up at the best spot on the island. it doesn’t matter how far we drive, we will drive. in fact, we’re texting each other all day long with foil reports. haha. here is Carter Lee feeling the cool breeze…
i use to be scared to take off on a wave over knee high. now, all i want is bigger and faster. i use to be scared to foil around people, but now i like going in and out of traffic. and when i think about it, we are all equally dangerous right? i’ve been getting run over by longboards and SUP’s for my whole life.
but don’t tell Tony Moniz about being dangerous because this man loves dangerous. i tell my friends that when you see him coming down a wave, get the heck out of his way because he won’t stop! i surfed with Tony hundreds of times over the past 33 years and not one guy on this island ever said anything bad about him. that says a lot about respect! a true Hawaiian…
*thank you Mia F. for sitting in the hot sun taking these photos of us 3 kids playing in the beautiful ocean. love you girl…
