you have to get pretty close to me or i have to get pretty close to you to get a good photo with a fish eye lens. Aoi got close on this one. almost hit me, but got the shot.
then he almost ran over my legs. omg, what a dangerous job.
Yamaguchi-san was surfing Rockpiles then my friend Dexter paddled out. Dexter talked story with him and gave him so many waves. i was watching from the inside being so thankful to have such supportive friends.
then Dexter took off and still ripping like he was when i first met him 35 years ago. thanks Dex!
happy to see Mai-chan out yesterday evening enjoying sunset time. surfing better and speaking English better. that’s the goal!
Carter’s been ripping on his foil. putting in the hard time and it’s paying off.
Tony’s the most excited one on this whole foil thing. i don’t even have to call him and he knows exactly where to find me. i came in from work, and he was right there waiting. haha. we foiled Rockpiles and Bowls yesterday, still don’t know where we’ll be going today. only the ocean knows…
when i was out at Diamond Head the other day, one surfer girl was sitting right in front of me and wouldn’t move. she said “don’t worry about me, i’ll just duck dive under you.” i said “really?”
omg, so beautiful Yumi-chan!!! thanks for sharing the Japanese culture i love so much.
no, seeing and swimming with all those dolphins wasn’t a dream…
