i’m surfing my afternoon session with Mai-chan. we ride a wave together, i start shooting photos, then the gopro flies out of my hand. couldn’t find it so it’s lost forever. all the photos from today will just have to be a memory in our minds. just like the old days… bummer but nothing i can do about it. another $400 lost and some memories gone. it’s crazy how i use to be so bummed out at things like this, but now, i’m super fine with anything that happens. maybe it was meant to be because i heard the new gopro 6 is the bomb! haha.
this is the only photo left i have of Nakahodo-san this morning. went surfing with him and his brother Taisai-san. believe me, we had an amazing time! super good rides and pure stoke! tomorrow i have a backup camera so i should be good.
went to grab a bento. it felt like i was in a Lawson store in Japan.
went surfing with Mai-chan this afternoon. had lots to catch up on. i’m so proud of this girl surfing so well, speaking English, and always making me feel young.
this is the local surfer girls dream life in Hawaii. enjoy it to the fullest Mai-chan!
then my 3rd session for the day. met my foil gang at Bowls for the evening tide and had a blast. 5 of us out catching every single wave in the ocean. just like how we use to do as kids. before i started foiling, i use to give a lot of waves away, but now, i catch every single one that comes to me. and these guys do the same too. haha. i guess we can’t help feeling so dam good!
we stayed out till dark again. surfed for 7 hours today which is becoming a daily habit. it’s unbelievable how healthy i feel right now. no photos to download so minus 2 hours on my computer. sleeping now which is 8:30pm. see you guys bright and early tomorrow morning!!!
