my friend asked me why i don’t surf anymore? i told her, “yes i do!” i’m just surfing in the air and on wave at the same time. she couldn’t understand what i was talking about. haha. anyway, i finally figured out how to do the full round house cutback on the foil. all it takes is confidence and commitment. kind of easier said than done.
first is to get a nice wave with a steep wall. then speed out to the open and lean your body into a cutback. this is where you can’t make a mistake because the foil will come up the same place you fall. so don’t second guess yourself.
then keep on leaning until you start coming back to the power spot of the wave. this is scary.
commitment is everything. don’t hesitate even for a split second.
then shift your weight and ride the wave back down just like you did on the take off.
then after you make it, look at your photographer and raise your arm like you just won the Pipeline Masters. then you drive home playing the music loud and sing out loud. even if you don’t know the words, you keep singing like you know it. then you go home and call your foil buddies to see where the spot is for tomorrow. haha.
